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Books

Surf Movie Tonite! Surf Movie Poster Art, 1957-2005

(2005, Harcourt)

Australian surfing legend Wayne Lynch admitted a few years ago that he’s never actually sat through an entire screening of the 1968 surf movie milestone Evolution, despite the fact that he’s the film’s headliner. No surprise. More »

The Encyclopedia of Surfing

(2005, Papaerback edition, Harcourt)

I told someone it was like straightening out the closet, except it took almost four years instead of most of the weekend. (Expanded paperback edition adds 32 new entries.) More »

Zero Break: an Illustrated Collection of Surf Writing, 1777-2004

(2004, Harcourt)

I did an article for The Surfer's Journal in 1997 titled "Paperweight," about how mainstream authors have written about surfing over the decades. A lot of the work was better than I thought it would be. Plenty of trash, sure, but some of the things I assumed were trash—Frederick Kohner's Gidget, for starters—were in fact really good. More »

Maverick's: the Story of Big-Wave Surfing

(2000, Chronicle)

Maverick's took about 10 months to make, and everything about this project just got better and easier as it went, until by the end it seemed like none of the people involved could put a foot wrong. More »

Above the Roar: 50 Surfer Interviews

(1997, Waterhouse)

I convinced ace longboarder/glad-hander Robert "Wingnut" Weaver, along with his delightful wife Janice, to form a publishing company called Waterhouse, based out of their home in Santa Cruz. I'd produce the books, Robert and Janice would sell them. More »

SurfRiders: In Search of the Perfect Wave

(1997, Tehabi)

I was originally supposed to do the introduction and edit a collection of surfer-written essays -- Brock Little and Evan Slater were two of the guys they had lined up. But I kind of power-played it, flew to San Diego to meet with the Tehabi owners, and talked them into letting me write the whole book. More »